To wine with a spoon at Ježeva kućica

The gastro project “Vino uz žlicu” (Wine with a Spoon) continued its mission of bringing top-quality wines and dishes closer to the public with its 16th event at the Ježeva Kućica restaurant in Zagreb. In the idyllic surroundings of the Maksimir Forest and the Zoo, five courses were prepared by the imaginative chef Stefan Prelić, who, together with Ivo Laštro, runs this charming restaurant, whose interior is inspired by the fairytale “Ježeva Kućica” by the writer Branko Ćopić. This lovely restaurant, with excellent food, is a short description of this gastronomic oasis, which has been operating under their leadership for two and a half years. “You won’t leave indifferent because our small creations are special,” said the young, confident chef, a statement he backed up with arguments on the plates. The welcome began with olive tapenade, cod croquettes with cod sauce, and tuna tartare, opening the appetite with Prosecco Tenuta Sant’Anna, presented by the wine bar Bornstein. Seasonal and spoon-friendly – next came a thick, creamy pumpkin soup with a hint of ginger, drizzled with 100% pumpkin oil from Agro Noršić in Odra, presented by Josip Noršić. His family has been in this business for decades, with 20 hectares of pumpkin cultivation and a mill where they process their own pumpkins for oil, seeds, and flour. All their products are sold at their doorstep and in about twenty selected restaurants in Zagreb and the surrounding area. The pairing with fresh, aromatic Šoškić Sauvignon Blanc 2021, presented by their sales manager Matija Pajvot, proved that pumpkin and wine go hand in hand. This was also a reminder that the Plešivica-based Šoškić winery is celebrating its 30th anniversary next year, not resting on this year’s platinum Decanter for their Haiku 2 blend, but preparing more surprises in their cellar. A “sea trip” on the plates and in the glasses came with a masterful cuttlefish ragout with black gnocchi, prepared by chef Stefan and his team. This dish, with expertly cooked cuttlefish and gnocchi that are perfect for the bite, can be entirely eaten with a spoon, but it calls for a strong and robust wine. Just such a wine was the Viški Grdelin Plavac Mali 2018, which was presented at this event before its official premiere at the upcoming Vino.com festival in Zagreb’s Esplanade. The simple packaging with a screw cap and basic bottle design aimed to emphasize the surprise of the wine’s quality, according to Tonći Gudelj from Split, the majority shareholder in the company Marinje zemlje, which owns the vineyards on Vis, above the Ruda Bay. Next came a dish of beef tail ragout, which chef Stefan Prelić is most proud of, revealing that he had eaten an excellent version of it in a Zagreb restaurant, but he made an effort to create an even better one – and evidently succeeded. The meat was cooked for 18 hours on a very low flame until it became as creamy as mille-feuille potatoes, completing the flavor of this delicious ragout. Even Damir Bogdanović, whose 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon perfectly paired with this special dish, was speechless. In an unofficial tasting poll among tasters, this pairing was declared the best. Bogdanović Winery is based in Vukovar, but the vineyards are in nearby Ilok, on Radoš, one of the best wine-growing locations, from which they produce Chardonnay. The production is still small, but Bogdanović plans to expand the vineyard and focus more on wine. Recently, his focus has been on the OIO Vivo & WINE Shop & Bar in Zagreb (Vlaška 33), which he opened in collaboration with OIO Vivo, a producer of extra virgin olive oils, whose director is Velimir Jurić. The olive grove, one of the largest in southern Istria, has more than 15,000 trees and produces top-quality oils from six varieties (Buža, Žižolera, Rozinjola, Bjelica, Gajardo, Bon), which this year alone won 17 gold medals worldwide. After all this, a well-deserved break was needed. Some took the opportunity to enjoy Italian Cagliari coffee, presented by their representative Anamarija Šimović, in various forms – ground, beans, and capsules – served as a classic espresso. She mentioned that the coffee is produced using a traditional method that retains all its organoleptic properties. It can also be enjoyed at their retail shop in Peščenica, Zagreb (Kosorova 19), and in a partner café in Gajeva Street. Others stayed awake thanks to Perković distillates from Bregana (Viljamovka and Smokovača brandies, Morlačka Krv cherry liqueur, Medovača, Teranino, and various shots in popular mix test tubes). Once again, it was proven that the Perković family deserves their place in the elite circle of small producers who highlight the true nature of fruit distillates with their brandies and liqueurs. Due to their exceptional quality, they have been awarded the Croatian Product title, reserved for products worthy of export. The eno-gastro story, which was aimed to be told this evening, was complemented by a presentation of the brand The Fabric, which creates luxury and personalized menus, wine lists, and other graphic essentials for the hospitality industry. All products are handmade from high-quality materials, with consistent graphic design by designer Denis Marelić, while his wife Zrinka Ljevar Marelić is responsible for marketing and sales activities. Consistency was also necessary at the tables of Ježeva Kućica, where a rather demanding dish of Sweet Potato Cream Puffs was served. Fortunately, their calorie content wasn’t overwhelming, and the pairing with a very unusual wine, Chresno Cabernet Cortis Rosé 2020, a fresh and aromatic wine from a five-year-old winery in Pitomača, helped make everything easier to enjoy. The owner, Miroslav Slaviček, has only 4 hectares of vineyards on the slopes of Bilogora, but he grows 17 varieties there according to ecological standards, including the hybrid Cabernet Cortis, a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Solaris. The winery is named after the medieval name of the village of Male Črešnjevice, where the vineyard is located, and plans are in place to build a tasting room to better introduce wine lovers and tourists to their wines with great potential. Five courses, five wines, olive and pumpkin oil, coffee… and, above all, many smiling and glowing faces were the main highlights of this unforgettable gathering in Maksimir Forest. To conclude and announce with Ćopić’s verses from “Ježeva Kućica”: “A four-hour lunch is being served, tightening the stomach like a war drum…” Until next time! FAMA / Photo: Nikola Zoko